Visit to Aether Sauna at Warleigh Weir - a long term wild swimming spot (dating way back to when it was just called swimming). This sauna lives on a little privately owned island on the banks of the river Avon (the one the runs through Bristol). Fun fact avon means 'river' in the old Brittonic or celtic langages, which is why we have several of them in the UK. So the River Avon is called River River.
I visited on opening weekend, so the site was still feeling very fresh at this point.
Getting there
Despite being proper rural, it's actually pretty easy to get the Aether on public transport.
By bus
From Frome:
It's a double bus extravaganza...
X34 bus to Trowbridge
D1 Bath (via Winsley) to Claverton Village
followed by a 7 minute walk from the roadside, down towards the train tracks (please cross carefully!) and then over the bridge onto the island at Warleigh Weir
From Bath:
D1 towards Warminster
Journey time:
17mins from Bath
40mins from Trowbridge
90mins from Frome
90mins from Warminster
Train and Hike options
Canal walk from Avoncliffe view on Hiker
Take the train to Avoncliffe (may be a request stop) from here it's a 80min / 3.7 mile walk, mostly along the Kennet and Avon canal to Warleigh Weir.
Walk from Freshford view route on Hiker
Take the train to Freshford (may also be a request stop) A slightly shorter walk, this takes you along parts of the Avon and parts of the canal. Some of this walk is on the road.
Both look like great options for a day out. If you're in need of a pit-stop then then Avoncliffe has a pub and a tea rooms where you can get some refreshment.
What are the vibe and löyly like?
Ah, this sauna is pretty special. It looks like a big black metal box, but's not your average conversion or prebuilt sauna. It's covered in solar panels that fold out to harness the power of the sun (more green credentials), they power the lovely chill lighting inside the sauna, the built in soundsystem for their aufguss sessions and the coffee machine in the back (plus presumably some behind the scenes wizardry)
It's very modern feeling with engineered wood that controls the flow of the steam inside the sauna (löyly). Contrary to many brits belief that sauna should be dry, the steam is an essential part of the experience. Owner Jonny Palmer talked us through some of the sauna etiquette and guided us in a 15min saunagus session which was dreamy.
The cold plunge is the Avon itself. Climb down a few steps and into the water above the weir. It's flipping cold in November. Most refreshing. It's also possible to swim here, but for me at this point in the year a pause to plunge is quite enough. The safety info was great - a good mix of general info on swim and sauna safety as well as what the water was looking like on that day. I imagine if you're not a regular swimmer but are interested this could be a great place to dip your toe in.
Changing facilities were very basic at this point, but for folk who swim and have a dry robe, that's no bother and I expect things will change over time. Another care point is that they offer electrolyte drinks, I felt very well cared for here. It's well worth the bus ride. In summertime there are lots of local waterside walks nearby.
Emilie Joy Rowell is an embodiment coach and sauna master who's passionate about slow adventures and the big picture wellness. She's writing this as a guide to reaching these wild wellbeing hotspots in the most sustainable and enjoyable ways.
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